I suspect that with some time, a perfumer the caliber of Dominique Ropion would have been able to get the composition balance in tune, but alas, as is, Promise becomes the weakest effort of the Malle Middle East series, and leaves this writer considerably wanting. It is only when the cypriol becomes the star about midway through the heart phase of development that the composition loses its balance, and loses the "promise" of being a major winner for Malle.
#FREDERIC MALLE PROMISE PLUS#
On the plus side, the tart apple note really is handled quite skillfully, pairing surprisingly well with the airy rose and the initially supporting cypriol. I would like to say Ropion was able to skillfully tone down the cypriol in Promise, but alas it is the composition's downfall, marring an otherwise fine effort by the master.
#FREDERIC MALLE PROMISE SERIES#
It might have been a tell-tale sign of things to come when Malle priced Promise significantly less than all the others in the Middle East series that used real oud within. Cypriol is used by many perfume outfits to approximate the smell of oud. The chances of another winner seemed pretty high, but there was one key note that was a potential showstopper. When I first heard about "Promise" being another Ropion and Malle collaboration, I was really eager to try the composition, as Ropion does his best work under Malle's direction yielding great results like Portrait of a Lady, Une Fleur de Cassie, Carnal Flower, and the first offering in the Malle Middle East series, The Night. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at around 12 hours on skin. As the composition moves to the late dry-down, the cypriol has become the star as the rose has long since vacated, staying so through the finish, only allowing hints of resinous dry honey-like labdanum to peep through in support. As the composition moves to its early heart, the apple vacates, leaving the airy rose to take the fore, adding sanitized light patchouli and mild pepper support, with faux-oud-like cypriol rising from the base, growing slowly in its intensity as time passes. Promise opens with an intersting slightly sweet, but also tart unripened apple with underlying airy rose support. The perfumer here is looking for needless complication and self obsession.įragrance: 8/10 just don't know who would carry it off As Picasso honed his art he looked for simplicty and unification. Please please don't let this show FM is going all unisex. A true rebel without cause and a flawed work of art with no one to belong to. the problem is that its a nice smell with little application I can see.Īs such its a James Dean of the the niche olfactory world. You can wax lyrical about different notes and historical this and spiritual successor to that but.
It is too masculine for a lady unless you are pin striping it.Īs the dry down proceeds it looses its sweetness but never relinquishes an element of fruitiness. It leans to the masculine but as a man you just don't want to smell like a slightly dry version of one of those boiled sweets that you half finished and had to hurriedly put in your top pocket as you got called in for your interview.
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